Re: Adjustable Spring Tension

Spoonless Supermatic

Re: New Electric Magnum Injector

Adjustable Cutter

Re: Adjustable Cutter

Re: Adjustable Cutter

Roller Release

Roller Release

Adjustable Spring Tension

Adjustable Spring Tension

Adjustable Spring Tension

Re: Adjustable Spring Tension

Re: Adjustable Spring Tension

Rubber Mat Alternative

Qiuet spring and spoon arm

Base plate

My stuffing tray

Re: My stuffing tray

'H' linkage nut replacement

'H' linkage nut replacement

Cig size through 100's

Cig size through 100's

Handle Extension

Brass_cutter_and_chamber.jpg

Custom_Crank_Plate.jpg

Cutter_brass_laminated.jpg

Hopper_Tray.jpg

Hopper_Tray_2.jpg

Hopper_Tray_3.jpg

Hopper_Tray_glue_ready_1

Hopper_Tray_glue_ready_2.jpg

Hopper_Tray_glue_ready_3.jpg

Hopper_Tray_glue_ready_4.jpg

Hopper Tray mounting (1st of 7 images) Stock machine with hopper tray and alignment block.

Hopper Tray mounting (2nd of 7 images) Ensure that the machine surface is clean and oil free. Remove any stickers from the top of the machine and clean with residue free solvent (denatured alcohol is good. Paint thinner is good for removing sticker residue). Remove the nut from the top of the crank arm. Remove, turn over and replace the small plate under the crank arm. You may need to wiggle or lightly pry the plate to get it off. With the machine in its open position the plate should be pointing to the left (9-10:00). Setting the machine on something like a tall jar lid will keep the crank shaft up and make reinstalling the crank plate/arm easier.

Hopper Tray mounting (3rd of 7 images) The alignment block has a Supermatic and Supermatic II side, use whichever fits in the slot the best. Seat the block so that the band of tape is touching the face of the machine. Getting the tape backing off the tray can be a bitch. I use a utility knife or pin to poke through the backing near a corner and lift it up.

Hopper Tray mounting (4th of 7 images) Glue-ready tray only. For glue I recommend polyurethane caulk (e.g. PL brand from Lowe's) for its superior adhesion and durability. Construction adhesive or Polyseamseal (comes in small tubes) should be fine. Whatever you use needs to be thick and not require that parts be tight fitting. A little goes a long way. The bead in the picture is actually a bit on the large size. A bit of glue will squeeze out of the ends. Using masking tape will keep things tidy and easy to clean.

Hopper Tray mounting (5th of 7 images) Slowly set the tray in place while keeping it parallel to the machine. Both surfaces are slightly flexible and neither is perfectly flat so push, squeeze and do whatever you can to push the machine top and tray bottom together. The better the initial bond, the longer the mounting will last.

Hopper Tray mounting (6th of 7 images) These last two images are for the glue-ready tray only. Here you can see what the masking tape is for.

Hopper Tray mounting (7th of 7 images) Remove the tape and leave everything else as is for a minimum of 24 hours. Both the tape and adhesive need time to cure. Be gentle for the first couple of days as the adhesive (esp. water-based) will likely take days to fully cure.

My original permanent mounting solution. The glue-ready tray method is a lot easier/tidier.

Hopper_blending_1.jpg

Hopper_blending_2.jpg

Hopper_blending_3.jpg

Hopper_pouch_1.jpg

Hopper_pouch_2.jpg

Hopper_pouch_3.jpg

Hopper_shag_1.jpg

Hopper_shag_2.jpg

Hopper_shag_3.jpg

Spoon_length.jpg

Spoon_position_base.jpg

Spoon_position_tip.jpg

Supermatic_Crank.jpg

Supermatic_Crank_custom_plate.jpg

Supermatic_Crank_flipped_plate.jpg

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